DAAWGS!!!

March 26, 2009

Africa trip, daily log – last day in Africa

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — Dave @ 10:04 pm

2/8/2009

We are heading back toward Arusha.  We stay at a lodge called Gibbs Farm.  If it wasn’t 11 time zones and 24 hours of travel time away, Gibbs Farm would be my new favorite romantic get away.  Each room is a little bungalow that is exquisitely done & spacious.  Three of the four walls are mostly glass looking out onto beautiful tropical plants.  There is a shower in a garden off the bathroom.  A final beautiful stop on what has been an amazing trip.

 

I highly recommend a visit.  Tanzania, Wilderness Travel, Kilimanjaro, Serengeti, and Gibbs Farm all were fabulous… not to be missed.

 

Follow this link to see photos of the trip.

Africa trip, daily log – second half of safari

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — Dave @ 10:02 pm

2/6&7/2009

Now we are in the Serengeti, which means “endless plain” which it truly is.  Grasslands as far as the eye can see, dotted with migrating wildebeest in impossible numbers stretching to the horizon.  We spend our days driving around on dusty (dust is called “safari powder”) bumpy dirt/mud roads trying to find animals or birds.  For me it is a bit boring with bursts of excitement when we actually connect with some animals.  Our drivers and guide are amazing in knowing when and where to find them.  I nicknamed them the “mailmen” because they always deliver.  We have 2 cars for our group of 5 guests and when one car finds something they get on the radio so the other car can join in the sighting.  Trouble is, the other groups are also monitoring our radio frequency, so soon we are joined by 5 other cars.  It isn’t all that distracting, but it is also not a wilderness experience.

 

The most amazing thing to me is the interaction between predator and prey.  I had expected that they would be in separate areas, with the predators sneaking into the prey’s territory when hunting.  But the animals are all intermixed sharing the same space.  When no hunt is on, they almost seem friendly to each other.  When the hunt is on, everyone is on high alert and the atmosphere is quite tense.  You also learn that even the clumsiest of the animals (like an ostrich or a giraffe) have some amazing defenses that make them quite difficult to kill.

 

We were lucky to see several hunting sequences.  We saw a Cheetah go from a mindless walk, to focused purpose, to stealthy stalking, to a blindingly fast acceleration, and then kill of a hare (a little appetizer before dinner).  We also got to see two female lions pursuing a herd of Hartebeest.  One lion made herself visible to the herd trying to push them away from her and closer to some tall grass, where her partner laid hiding.  A leader of the herd picked up on the ruse & was able to spot the lion in the grass & just stared at her in her hiding spot (we could not see a thing in the thick grass).  Finally, the lion stood up & walked away from her hiding spot, foiled on this attempt… followed by two little cubs getting some on the job training in hunting technique.

 

The cycle of life is much more visible here than it was on the Galapagos Islands.  You see the difficulties of life, the struggles and the killing.  You also see the role played by many different species and how they complement each other in some amazing ways to form a very stable ecosystem.  In concept it is beautiful, an amazing creation, but down on the ground the “eat or be eaten” dictates of life are hard and dirty.

 

Follow this link to see photos of the trip.

AFrica trip, daily log – first half of safari

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — Dave @ 10:01 pm

2/4&5/2009

The safari is better described by photos… so I won’t be saying a lot here.  We spent a day in the Ngorongoro Crater which is about 10 miles in diameter.  The crater floor is relatively flat with a range of vegetation from open grass lands to lakes to forested areas.  With a wide variety of animals to be seen.  We spent time with a Masai chief.  The Masai people are a tribe trying to hang on to their native life style.  The chief tried to sell us on polygamy, dirt floors, no windows, and thatch roofs.  As he talked about the importance of maintaining the traditional ways, he was interrupted for a cell phone call and we noticed he was wearing a fleece jacket.  Touring his living compound and going inside one of his homes (one for each wife) was quite depressing.  Apparently we are not the only skeptics as his own children refuse to come back after experiencing modern life and the chief’s youngest wife is demanding a modern style house.  In our group his visit prompted a discussion about the importance of a culture embracing change.

 

We stopped in to see the Olduvai Gorge, which is the site of Mary Leakey’s work.  Here they found 3 million year old human footprints as well as some skeletons and stone age tools (that looked a lot like rocks).  Apparently this region is currently viewed s the birthplace of our species.

 

Follow this link to see photos of the trip.

Africa trip, daily log – The Safari begins

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — Dave @ 9:59 pm

2/3/2009

I can hardly walk!  My quads and calves are SO STIFF.  Even the smallest of steps is a major ordeal.  Everyone is in the same boat.  Very funny watching people trying to walk.  I’m very glad we will spend most of the next week just riding around in a car.  We separate our mountain clothes from our safari clothes… the mountain clothes being held at the hotel for our return to catch the airplane home.  The Naylors say goodbye at breakfast.  Kit joins us for a little shopping… Kit is buying before heading out on his one day safari, the rest of us our just window shopping (Samia’s idea).  Kit’s credit card gets rejected because of so much fraud in Africa.  After many phone calls it all works out.  We part ways & head for the Serengeti.  At my request that stop at an Internet café so I can send an email to Karen requesting that she contact our credit card company and tell them to approve any purchases I make on our last day.

 

We have a picnic lunch & keep driving until almost 5pm before we get to our camp near the Ngorongoro Crater.  The camp is similar to Mt. Meru with very nice tents with beds and attached bathrooms.

 

Follow this link to see photos of the trip.

Africa trip, comments on gear

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — Dave @ 9:58 pm

Kilimanjaro Gear

Let’s talk equipment for a bit.  I was outfitted almost head to toe by REI and everything worked great.  Rain gear is essential and my rain pants, rain shell, and pack cover all worked great.  My rain pants were old style, just like pants with zippers at the bottom, but they actually seemed to work better than the totally open (basketball warm up style) zipper/Velcro system on other people’s newer pants.  The newer pants did offer more flexibility, but it was also a pain for people to get everything facing the right direction & all buttoned up for a tight seal.  I think the pants would have been better if they were well defined (i.e. sewn) from waist to 5 inches below the crotch & all the way down the inseam.  Then just have the outside seam of the pants open with sealing up via Velcro.  It is important for the rain pants to offer plenty of room for layers underneath. 

 

I had new gaiters (my old ones broke on a training hike) & the new Velcro up the front (vs. zipper in back) makes getting them on and off a breeze.  I’m not sure if the gaiters were really needed every day, but they certainly were down low & then through the scree near the top of the mountain.  I wore my 5 year old Asolo boots with Gore-Tex uppers and they worked great… no foot or toe problems at all (even on the long descent day), and my feet stayed nice and dry despite the heavy rain and deep mud.

 

For my legs I had my normal medium weight long underwear, expedition weight long underwear, and fleece pants.  I also had some regular cargo hiking pants, but I stopped wearing them after 2 days and just used my rain pants as the constant outer layer for my legs.

 

For my upper body I had my normal medium weight long underwear, expedition weight long underwear, dry fit long sleeve shirts, medium weight pullover fleece sweater, and a heavy weight fleece top with my rain shell on top.  This was plenty of warmth and the layering approach worked very well and I would recommend it over a heavy jacket.

 

The very slow pace definitely means you don’t generate as much body heat as I’m used to on my normal outings.  Compared to what I wear for a snow shoe outing back home to what I wore up high on Kilimanjaro (similar temperature range)… I needed more layers on Kilimanjaro.  I wore heavier gloves and more layers on top and bottom than I ever wear back home.

 

For my hands, up top I was wearing my heavy ski mittens.  Lower down a light liner glove was not quite enough, but with a wind shell over the top my hands stayed warm… keeping them dry probably made a big difference as well.  Trekking poles are a definite must.  During the first two days it is a real challenge just to stay vertical in the slippery mud, without poles I would have fallen down several times, and there were spots where I’m not sure I could have gotten up the hill without being able to use the poles and my upper body as points of force.  Later on the poles were helpful for balancing in particular when I hiking in the dark with just my headlight.  Of course on the two descent days I was using the poles like crazy to lighten the impact on my knees and quads.

 

On my head I wore my “helmet hat” (the full head fleece liner that I wear under my downhill ski helmet) on cold days, with my wide brimmed sun hat and then the hood on my rain shell.  In the rain, I kept my sun hat on with the hood pulled over the top because the big brim of the sun hat really helped keep the rain off my glasses which made hiking more enjoyable.

 

I had an REI “Kili” down sleeping bag & it kept me very warm and toasty.  I was a bit worried with all the condensation inside the tent that dripped onto the bag, but just wiping the bag off in the morning seemed to prevent any serious absorption of water.

 

I am pretty well outfitted for three season hiking plus snow shoeing and downhill skiing.  The only extras I needed to purchase for this climb were the sleeping bag (my old one was due for replacement, but normally I would not have purchased such a warm bag) and the expedition weight long underwear.  Both of these were important items on the climb, but there was nothing else that I needed.

 

For water, I carried 3 one liter camelback bottles with bite valves.  I hung one bottle off a carbineer on my waist belt and put the other 2 in pouches in my backpack.  I did not bring my camelback bladder.  By drinking from the bottle hanging from my waist belt it was almost as convenient as the bladder.  I went with the bottles out of concern for the bite valve and tube to the bladder freezing.  If they froze, I was concerned that I would really be hurting for fluids.  Whereas with the bottles, if the bite valve freezes you can always unscrew the top & just drink the water like a normal bottle.  Some of my fellow hikers had bladders and they seemed to work OK.  Veronica taught them to blow into the bite valve after drinking to clear the water out of the valve and the tube so there was nothing in there to freeze.  Seemed to work.

 

I used 2 old one liter Nalgene bottles as my pee bottles for use in the tent at night.  I was peeing a liter and a half at night, so I needed this much capacity.  I had stopped using the bottles for water some time earlier because they had PBA plastic… so this was a good use.  However a 2 liter bottle would be even better because I still had to switch bottles in the middle of the night & it kept you guessing regarding how much more you could pee without overflowing the bottle.

 

Dirt doesn’t bother me, but my hands were gross by the end of the trip.  I think I would recommend bringing a small little scrub brush to use with soap & water to scrub the grime off your hands 7 fingernails.  I found the “body wipes” to be very useful.  It worked well for me to have all my meds in a single ziplock bag… quick access.  I carried a bottle of Tylenol in my backpack in case I needed relief on the trail.

 

Follow this link to see photos of the trip.

Africa trip, daily post – last day on Kilimanjaro

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — Dave @ 9:56 pm

2/2/2009

In the morning the tipping situation is awkward.  We all pool our money for the group tip in the mess tent.  But the crew is hanging around like vultures; normally they pretty much stay away from us.  I give an extra $20 to Thomas and to Kevin; and give my sneakers to Stephen.  The more assertive crew members get more stuff.  But clearly Kevin’s kindness and outgoing personality for the entire trip is repaid with extra tips from all guests.

 

Veronica leads the whole group down the last 4,000′ of vertical.  The trail is wide; at times it has big rock steps.  We are back into the rain forest, but it doesn’t seem as nice as the forest we went through on the way up.  My body is doing well… my legs are stiff, but not too bad.  Everyone is in good spirits.  We meet Sue & Lori (Steve & Murray’s wives that are joining us for the safari) coming up the trail.  We sign off the mountain, I buy a T-shirt and a map, and then we have lunch in a light rain before driving about 2 hours to our hotel in Arusha.

 

The hotel has internet access, but you use the computer behind the front desk and the connection is very slow.  But I get a short message off to Karen to let her know that all is well.  You have to pay for the internet and everything else with cash, no credit cards are accepted.  I also spring for a massage.  The masseuse is a big lady and she really leans into her work so I get a nice full body massage.  It feels good, but we’ll see tomorrow if it helps.  We have a nice dinner; everyone has showered and is wearing city clothes… what a different look.  Everyone says nice things about Samia and Veronica… a great good bye.  We all get certificates for having made it to the summit.

 

Follow this link to see photos of the trip.

Africa trip, daily post – to the rooftop on SuperBowl Sunday

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — Dave @ 9:54 pm

2/1/2009

Summit Day!!!

I had a good sleep and I’m warm and toasty in my sleeping bag.  But my water bottles in the tent have been frozen solid… no slush, solid ice.  We are up at 5am and on the trail by 6am.  It is nearly day break so no need for headlights today.

 

We are on nature’s time schedule on the trip.  Sunrise is around 6:30am with sunset coming about 12 hours later around 7pm.  We are in our sleeping bags for those 12 hours of cold darkness… it definitely pays to have a good bag and to be comfortable having the bag drawn up all around your head.

 

I’m fully layered up today:  legs: long undies, expedition weight long undies, my fleece pants and then my rain pants (my best friends on this trip) followed by my gaiters.  Feet: liners with smart wool socks over the top, then my boots.  My feet are doing great, no problems at all.  Top: long undies, dry fit, expedition long undies, blue fleece, my heavy gray fleece, then the rain shell.  I’m wearing my down hill ski mittens with my fleece helmet hat and the rain shell hood over my head.

 

We trudge up a scree hill to 19,100′.  This is similar to Mt. Whitney’s steep section.  Lots of switch backs & steep but not at all scary.  This gets up to a large sloping mountain top.  We walk up a large flat sandy surface to gain the summit at 19,340′ at 8am.  It is sunny and clear and you can see the glaciers hanging off the top of the mountain and headed down the sides.

 

I slept with my camera in my sleeping bag as usual (to help conserve the battery), but then I put it on my belt when we set out.  At 19,100, I notice that the camera is very cold, so I put it inside my mitten to warm up hoping the camera will work well for shots on the summit.  The camera seems to work fine.  After photos we start our descent at 8:30am.

 

The descent starts as a trail, then turns into a big sandy bank that you can almost ski down… nice on your knees, but still tough on your quads and feet.  August takes the fast group, but I hang back with Samia because I know today’s descent is going to be brutal and I want to protect my knees as much as I can.  We have lunch at 15,000′ at a campground for people coming up the “tourist route”.  It is very crowded and noisy.  People selling T-shirts, beer, etc.  We have lunch… my quads are sore, but my feet are doing great, no problems with blisters on my toes.  Our personal porters have waited for us at this lunch stop, so we can strip off many layers because it is much warmer and the tough guys will carry these unneeded layers down in our duffle bags.  My afternoon descent is with Veronica.  Much of this stretch is a normal trail, but it gets rocky at times as we transition back to heather.  We can see our camp (Meveka Hut at 10,000′) for quite some time… but it never seems to get any closer.  The trail becomes very muddy as we approach camp.  My quads are jelly and I’m using my trekking poles to help lower myself down with each step.

 

We get into camp around 3 or 4.  Have to sign in at the warden’s hut.  My quads are very sore & I worry about my knees but I don’t have any pain.

 

Follow this link to see photos of the trip.

Africa trip, daily post – Ascent of the Western Breach Wall

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — Dave @ 9:53 pm

1/31/2009

Wakeup call comes at 4am.  Temperature is 28 degrees inside the tent.  We will be on the trail at 5am to start our 8 hour climb up to 18,500.  We are leaving early to get through a dangerous stretch before the sun hits the rocks, melting the ice and making them more likely to fall.  I’m wearing all my layers except the expedition long underwear.  I’m also wearing my warm downhill ski mittens.

 

I find it disorienting to hike with the headlight and its narrow beam of illumination.  I really have to pay attention and use my trekking poles to keep my balance.  For the first time Samia has us in a specific order.  Kathryn is up front because she will need help from Samia.  But then all tent mates are separated, I think so that there will be minimal talking and more focus on the task at hand.

 

We are moving up a very steep route.  It is hard work because we are walking on big loose rocks in the beginning.  We are wearing helmets because of the potential for rock fall.  There are spectacular views in every direction once the sun comes up.  Awesome!!!

 

Once we reach the “freight train” rock formation snow blocks the normal route.  So Samia backtracks and we go up the other side and across the “bowling alley” with greater exposure to rock falls.  We are doing quite a bit of scrambling up chimneys with quite a bit of exposure.  There are always good foot and hand holds, so it’s not really scary, but when you look back… its clear it would be quite a fall if you did lose it.  Samia has said no cameras on the most difficult pitches.  Even when allowed, most of my shots are taken just holding the camera out with my arm & clicking the shutter.  Altitude is definitely having an effect.  The slow pace means you don’t warm up… so all the layers stay on.  Only when the sun starts to beat down on us do things warm up.

 

One of the porters is really struggling.  They all seem to be taking breaks and going more slowly than in the past.  It’s nice to see that the “tough guys” can’t just shoot up this steep grade with their heavy loads.  However, I am impressed with their ability to carry heavy loads up such a steep pitch.  I have renewed respect for all mountain climbers that are ferrying their own gear up to a higher camp, making multiple trips just to establish a camp.

 

While today’s climb is not technical and not as exposed as bouldering, it is definitely the most exposed I’ve been since my rock climbing days in Salt Lake City.  I don’t have “sewing machine” leg, but I’m fearful enough  to double check my hand grips and foot holds before transferring my weight.  But there are usually several options with good traction within reach.  Samia is hauling Kathryn up most tough spots & Murray and I each give her a boost from below once.  Veronica gets stuck once in a spot where she is too short to reach the next hand hold… Samia comes back & pulls her up.

 

We eat snacks several times on the way up.  I go through 3 Cliff bars.  This is the only day where personal snacks are of any value.  The WT packing list is a bit strange in this regarding because they encourage you to bring lots of snacks… but we are fed so well 3 times a day I’m not sure how anyone could eat any more.  But today we are definitely burning up lots of energy & there won’t be any cooked food until we are at Crater Camp.  We are working hard, but not sweating because of the slow pace and the cold temperatures.

 

As we near the top, I ditch my helmet because it doesn’t fit well & hurts my head.  I also collapse my poles because the scrambling is easier that way.  I’m surprised that everyone else continues on using their poles.  Finally we reach the top of the wall and walk onto the crater floor at 18,500′.  Light snow is falling and a light breeze.  The crater rim rises 800 – 1,000 feet above us on all sides (except for the “breach” that we just climbed through.  We walk past glaciers that tower above us, maybe 100′ thick.  We get a nice greeting from the tough guys as we enter camp.  I have a small headache; Samia recommends Tylenol rather than extra Diamox. 

 

Kathryn is too sick to come to dinner, a combination of altitude and cold.  Samia is shuttling to her tent on a regular basis providing some more meds and encouraging food in any form plus hot liquids.  The weather clears in the afternoon and the views are much better.  The crater glaciers are like ice cubes.  They stand alone & there are no moraines or any other of the normal side effects of glaciers.

 

I go to sleep wearing all the layers I had on during the day except my outer shells. (My sleeping bag is rated to -20 degrees and I’m staying toasty.)  It’s really as much about not having to get dressed tomorrow morning as it is about keeping warm.  They give us each a hot water bottle to go in our sleeping bags.  It feels nice laying on my tummy and even better down around my feet.

 

Follow this link to see photos of the trip.

Africa trip, daily post – short hike to Arrow Glacier Camp

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — Dave @ 9:51 pm

1/30/2009

Snow on the tents this morning.  Just a dusting, but it makes everything look even more beautiful.  We do the short hike up to Arrow Glacier Camp at 16,000′.  The weather is not very good so we mostly hang in our tent and think about tomorrow’s big climb.  Killing time, Kit, Murray, Steve, and I conceive the “diamox song” as we discuss the constant peeing.  We all are thankful that we brought along bottles to pee into at night.  It has been quite cold the last few nights and with getting up 4 or more times a night to pee I can’t imagine having to step outside the tent.  I am using 2 one liter bottles to pee in at night and I’m glad I have that capacity.

 

Above 15,500 one of the tough guys, Kevin, hikes with us carrying oxygen and a gamut bag in case of serious altitude sickness.  After dinner, the weather clears and we have some beautiful views down to Lava Tower and up to Arrow Glacier.  Tomorrow is the big day.

 

Follow this link to see photos of the trip.

Africa trip: daily post — rest day at Lava Tower

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — Dave @ 9:37 pm

1/29/2009

It is 30 degrees inside our tent this morning when I wake up.  My sleeping bag is keeping me very toasty, but I definitely burrow my head down inside the bag so not much skin is exposed.  We are getting some condensation inside the tent which drips onto our sleeping bags, which isn’t good for my down bag, but I just wipe the bag off & it doesn’t seem to be absorbing much moisture.

 

Beautiful clear morning with Mt. Meru clearly visible in the distance.  We can also see our route up to the crater in front of us… its going to be steep getting up to 18.5… definitely a mountain climb.  After breakfast we set out on an acclimatization hike to 16,000 (while exercise per say does not help you acclimatize; going to a higher altitude and hanging our for an hour or more pushes your body ahead even though you return to a lower altitude for more comfortable sleeping.)  We use the rest step, which works great, but you go so slowly that you need more layers of clothing than normal.  I’m wearing more layers than I would normally wear on a snow shoe outing.  Some beautiful views and photo opportunities as we hike.  Clouds move in around 10am.

 

Our destination is Arrow Glacier Camp which is where we will stay tomorrow night.  When we arrive we find a bunch of garbage all around.  Here we learn that our tough guys clean up a camp site when they arrive and our setting up camp.  So it always looked clean and pristine to us… now we see some of the reality.

 

We return back to Lava Camp for a relaxing afternoon.  The last few days my outfit has been:  bottoms: rain pants over long underwear (I like the rain pants because the legs are bigger than my normal hiking pants and I can add my fleece pants as needed).  Top is long underwear, then dry fit long sleeve top, then rain shell with my light fleece coming on and off.  For my hands I’m wearing my liner gloves and occasionally my wool mittens and shells.  On my head is my sun hat & rain hood and occasionally I’m adding my helmet liner for some extra warmth.

 

The guides won’t let us climb Lava Tower because of the recent rain… they say the rocks will be very slick.  Tool bad, it looks like a very fun scramble.  We play some cards.  Kit shoots the moon on the first hand of hearts.  Doesn’t last long because Murray doesn’t really want to play.  Beautiful night sky, thick with stars beyond belief.  We are all very dirty.  Hands & fingernails are truly gross (even to me).  But Purell and the chlorine water must be doing the trick because we are all staying healthy.  I’m thinking about Karen a lot and hope she is doing well.

 

Follow this link to see photos of the trip.

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